New Zealand Climbing
I'm back after climbing in New Zealand. It was a hard trip, both emotionally and physically.
Arthurs Pass
We had a wet start in Arthur's Pass for a few days, including an aborted attempt on Mt Rollestone (rain), so we hiked up Mt Avalanche with my son Nat, Sophie and Alan as a warm up event.
Ahuriri Valley, NZAC Climbing Camp
We then drove back to Christchurch to load up on food. We crammed 2 weeks worth of food into an already overloaded car, stashing food under seats, into the glovebox and even into the spare wheel well. Somehow we packed all the food in and drove to the NZAC Climbing Camp in the Ahuriri valley (near Omarama). We drove the dirt road down the valley hoping that we would be able to reach the end and not have to hike. Little did we know that all other NZAC members had had to wait while a bulldozer graded the road on a particularly nasty fan (rubble washed down from a creek) that was inpassable. We reached camp on New Years eve to a BBQ and party, surrounded by beautiful mountains.
The Ahuriri Valley was recently purchased by the DOC (NZ government) from a local farmer. It is a widish valley with a river running though it, surrounded on both sides by beautiful mountains easily accessible from the camp in a day. There were no nearby huts unfortunately though, but the NZAC erected a large communal tent and installed outhouses and boiling water facilities (to make those endless cups of tea).
We settled into camp eyeing the surrounding mountains, many of them unclimbed previously and also unnamed. Alan and I headed up valley with a few days food intent on climbing unclimbed peaks, while Sophie and Nat settled into camp and did day hikes with the other youngsters in camp including numerous children and families. Most of the other climbers in camp headed up to attempt Mt Barth.
Alan and I climbed with another climber we had previously met on last years NZAC camp; Rob Leary. He is a wise tough older man, and we got along well while staying in a small DOC hut up the valley. We managed a number of peaks, some of which are unclimbed. Peak 2277 was memorable in it steepness and views to the neighbouring Mt Barth. We managed to see other summit parties on top. We provided route descriptions to Ross Cullen the guidebook author who was also climbing in the camp this year.
After 9 days, and little rain, we left camp intent for some R&R in Wanaka and then plans to visit and attempt Mt Aspiring.
Mt Aspiring
After a feed and wash, we realised the weather window was opening perfectly for an attempt on Aspiring if we left the next day, so we packed up, bought more food an hiked into the Aspiring National Park. Nat and Sophie hiked into the NZAC's Aspiring Hut with us, and then decided to stay there a while (good move), while Alan and I headed up dreaded French Ridge to French Ridge Hut. It was a miserable hike into the hut, with an insanely steep trail, rain and wind hammering us with our obsenely heavy packs (35kgs+). Regardless, we nade it after 2h50m from the valley floor. A warm night in the hut was appreciated to dry out. The weather window opened the next day; reasonably sunny and no wind. We were undecided as to whether to climb to the bottom of the SW ridge of Aspiring and camp, or hang out in the hut all day. Bivying out would mean we would start much closer to the base of the climb but meant we had to lug packs etc up the Quarterdeck Glacier, then across the Bonar glacier to the base of the SW ridge. Staying in the hut meant we would rest more (though on a sunny day), but meant we would have to leave much earlier (like, midnight) and have much further to go - it was a good 3 or 4 hours to the base of the SW ridge from the hut, 7 hours (estimate) to climb the SW ridge, 7 more hours down the NW ridge, then maybe 5 hours across the Bonar and down the Quarterdeck glacierrws to the hut. A long day.
Eventually we left, hiked up the Quarterdeck Glacier on a beautiful sunny hot day, getting fantastic views everywhere and improving our suntan.
Summit Day
After a cold night camped on the Bonar Glacier, at the bottom of the SW ridge of Aspiring, we awoke at 4am. From the warmth of our sleepingbags, we soon heard footsteps of another climber, Mark, travelling solo and moving quickly across the now frozen, crunchy glacier.
Mark had decided to start at French Ridge Hut overnight and leave very early, making use of the frozen glacier to speed along the route. He was travelling light and fast, by himself, and after a quick hello he moved on.
It was still dark, but Alan and I arose, broke up the camp and packed the tent, loaded all our gear and set off (at about 5am). Breakfast was half a pita bread and some water - we felt that we were running late already even though the sun hadn't risen yet.
We walked unroped to the bottom of the SW ridge, and started the slow climb. The snow was frozen hard overnight, making walking easy compared to yesterday's slog through the deep slush under the relentless sun. I had fried myself pretty badly the day before, even with the layers of sunscreen I had worn.
Alan and I used the 'post holes' from previous parties as steps, and driving both ice-axes into the hard snow we gained the main ridge proper after an hour or so effort. We had passed a snowcave with 3 young kiwi guys (they were still asleep in there), and Mark had pulled far ahead up the ridge. Our first obstacle came as a steep short cliff band, which Alan ascended free and then through a rope down to me below. The sun had risen by this time, though we were on the far side of the ridge and in the shade.
Clouds had closed in the West Matukituki valley far below, and as we rose the views became more magnificent.
We continued uneventfully, but mindful of the exposure to the bottom of the couloir. , which we reached about 10.30am. From here the climbing got very technical, so I sunk a t-slot anchor while Alan tackled the first steep ice pitch. It was almost vertical for about 6m, the lessened out a bit. The drop below Alan and I was a few thousand feet. With a few grunts he pulled up and continued up the couloir, andchoring a belay somewhere above. By this time the Kiwi lads had awoken and caught up to us at my belay. I then humped on the pack, and climbed after Alan.
Arthurs Pass
We had a wet start in Arthur's Pass for a few days, including an aborted attempt on Mt Rollestone (rain), so we hiked up Mt Avalanche with my son Nat, Sophie and Alan as a warm up event.
Ahuriri Valley, NZAC Climbing Camp
We then drove back to Christchurch to load up on food. We crammed 2 weeks worth of food into an already overloaded car, stashing food under seats, into the glovebox and even into the spare wheel well. Somehow we packed all the food in and drove to the NZAC Climbing Camp in the Ahuriri valley (near Omarama). We drove the dirt road down the valley hoping that we would be able to reach the end and not have to hike. Little did we know that all other NZAC members had had to wait while a bulldozer graded the road on a particularly nasty fan (rubble washed down from a creek) that was inpassable. We reached camp on New Years eve to a BBQ and party, surrounded by beautiful mountains.
The Ahuriri Valley was recently purchased by the DOC (NZ government) from a local farmer. It is a widish valley with a river running though it, surrounded on both sides by beautiful mountains easily accessible from the camp in a day. There were no nearby huts unfortunately though, but the NZAC erected a large communal tent and installed outhouses and boiling water facilities (to make those endless cups of tea).
We settled into camp eyeing the surrounding mountains, many of them unclimbed previously and also unnamed. Alan and I headed up valley with a few days food intent on climbing unclimbed peaks, while Sophie and Nat settled into camp and did day hikes with the other youngsters in camp including numerous children and families. Most of the other climbers in camp headed up to attempt Mt Barth.
Alan and I climbed with another climber we had previously met on last years NZAC camp; Rob Leary. He is a wise tough older man, and we got along well while staying in a small DOC hut up the valley. We managed a number of peaks, some of which are unclimbed. Peak 2277 was memorable in it steepness and views to the neighbouring Mt Barth. We managed to see other summit parties on top. We provided route descriptions to Ross Cullen the guidebook author who was also climbing in the camp this year.
After 9 days, and little rain, we left camp intent for some R&R in Wanaka and then plans to visit and attempt Mt Aspiring.
Mt Aspiring
After a feed and wash, we realised the weather window was opening perfectly for an attempt on Aspiring if we left the next day, so we packed up, bought more food an hiked into the Aspiring National Park. Nat and Sophie hiked into the NZAC's Aspiring Hut with us, and then decided to stay there a while (good move), while Alan and I headed up dreaded French Ridge to French Ridge Hut. It was a miserable hike into the hut, with an insanely steep trail, rain and wind hammering us with our obsenely heavy packs (35kgs+). Regardless, we nade it after 2h50m from the valley floor. A warm night in the hut was appreciated to dry out. The weather window opened the next day; reasonably sunny and no wind. We were undecided as to whether to climb to the bottom of the SW ridge of Aspiring and camp, or hang out in the hut all day. Bivying out would mean we would start much closer to the base of the climb but meant we had to lug packs etc up the Quarterdeck Glacier, then across the Bonar glacier to the base of the SW ridge. Staying in the hut meant we would rest more (though on a sunny day), but meant we would have to leave much earlier (like, midnight) and have much further to go - it was a good 3 or 4 hours to the base of the SW ridge from the hut, 7 hours (estimate) to climb the SW ridge, 7 more hours down the NW ridge, then maybe 5 hours across the Bonar and down the Quarterdeck glacierrws to the hut. A long day.
Eventually we left, hiked up the Quarterdeck Glacier on a beautiful sunny hot day, getting fantastic views everywhere and improving our suntan.
Summit Day
After a cold night camped on the Bonar Glacier, at the bottom of the SW ridge of Aspiring, we awoke at 4am. From the warmth of our sleepingbags, we soon heard footsteps of another climber, Mark, travelling solo and moving quickly across the now frozen, crunchy glacier.
Mark had decided to start at French Ridge Hut overnight and leave very early, making use of the frozen glacier to speed along the route. He was travelling light and fast, by himself, and after a quick hello he moved on.
It was still dark, but Alan and I arose, broke up the camp and packed the tent, loaded all our gear and set off (at about 5am). Breakfast was half a pita bread and some water - we felt that we were running late already even though the sun hadn't risen yet.
We walked unroped to the bottom of the SW ridge, and started the slow climb. The snow was frozen hard overnight, making walking easy compared to yesterday's slog through the deep slush under the relentless sun. I had fried myself pretty badly the day before, even with the layers of sunscreen I had worn.
Alan and I used the 'post holes' from previous parties as steps, and driving both ice-axes into the hard snow we gained the main ridge proper after an hour or so effort. We had passed a snowcave with 3 young kiwi guys (they were still asleep in there), and Mark had pulled far ahead up the ridge. Our first obstacle came as a steep short cliff band, which Alan ascended free and then through a rope down to me below. The sun had risen by this time, though we were on the far side of the ridge and in the shade.
Clouds had closed in the West Matukituki valley far below, and as we rose the views became more magnificent.
We continued uneventfully, but mindful of the exposure to the bottom of the couloir. , which we reached about 10.30am. From here the climbing got very technical, so I sunk a t-slot anchor while Alan tackled the first steep ice pitch. It was almost vertical for about 6m, the lessened out a bit. The drop below Alan and I was a few thousand feet. With a few grunts he pulled up and continued up the couloir, andchoring a belay somewhere above. By this time the Kiwi lads had awoken and caught up to us at my belay. I then humped on the pack, and climbed after Alan.
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